Tokyo 2
2 December 2025
Tokyo is a special city. Neon lights surround you. There is foot traffic on most any road you walk. There is a store for everything you could want. The food is some of the best in the world. There are so many things to do. I enjoyed my time here even more on my second visit.
Día 1
- Uogashi Nihon-Ichi
- Shinjuku
- Golden Gei
Our hostel in Fukuoka was only 15 minutes from the airport, and we had no issues taking the domestic flight to Narita Airport. We took Jetstar, which is a budget airline, so the seats were small and uncomfortable. I played games on my retro handheld while listening to an audiobook. Jonny somehow managed to sleep for a bit.
I’m something of a tetris prodigy.
We took the Shinkansen toward our Airbnb, but we had to get off and transfer to another train near the end of the trip. We got off and were riding the escalator up when I realized I didn’t have my phone. I ran down the escalator, jumping the last few steps. When I got to the bottom, I saw the train doors had just closed. I spoke with a train attendant and motioned that I’d left my phone on the train. He used a translator device to tell me I should take the next train and follow the Shinkansen to the next station.
Jonny had gone up the stairs. I couldn’t decide if I should go up and get him to come with me and possibly miss the next train, or take off without letting him know my plan and risk getting lost in Tokyo with no phone and no money. I keep my credit card in a magnetic wallet on my phone. The next train came, and I made my decision. I hopped on the train just as the doors were closing. On the train ride over, I pondered on what a mess I’d gotten myself into.
At the next station, I was relieved to see the Shinkansen was still there. As soon as the doors on my train opened, I bolted to the Shinkansen. I found my car, but the doors were closed. I saw an old man inside cleaning. I rapped on the window with a knuckle and mimed the signs for “my phone here” by pointing at myself, doing the hang loose/phone sign with my thumb and pinky fingers extended, and then pointing at the train seats. From his cart, he pulled out my phone and smiled.
After getting my phone back, I filled Jonny in and checked my location. It turned out I was in Ueno Station. I had planned to visit the area to buy a kitchen knife. Jonny had planned to meet up with some friends who live close to Tokyo, so we each went on our own adventures.
I was still in rush mode due to my elevated blood pressure from the phone debacle. I fast-walked to the kitchen supplies shopping district in Ueno, walked into the second knife store I saw, and bought the first santoku kitchen knife I came across, without asking any questions. That’s not ever how I do things, but something came over me. Hopefully, it’s a good one. I haven’t used it yet.
After that, I took the train to our Airbnb to drop off my backpack. We stayed at a kind of guesthouse – a house where each room is rented and the amenities are shared. Candle House is between Taito City, Shinjuku, and Shibuya.
Uogashi Nihon-Ichi
After doing that, I took a short train to Shinjuku. I walked to my favorite sushi place in the world – Uogashi Nihon-Ichi. It was just as good as I remembered.
I spared no expense. I ordered item after item. My favorites are the ones roasted with a blowtorch. I always love freshwater eel, so I ordered three to start. The fatty salmon with mayo was the standout of the day. I ended up spending $35, which is pricy in Japan, but not a lot in the US, and especially not bad considering how amazing the sushi is.
Shinjuku
I spent some time walking around the popular areas of Shinjuku. I went to a Book Off and bought a used Pokémon game for Nintendo Switch.
Call me basic, but Shinjuku is my favorite area of Tokyo.
Golden Gai
Golden-Gai is a maze of extremely narrow alleyways lined with dozens of tiny bars in Shinjuku. Many of the bars seat fewer than ten people. The eclectic signage and cramped quarters give the streets a gritty, nostalgic feel.
I returned to the Airbnb and met up with Jonny. We planned the following day. While looking up restaurants, Jonny and I decided to go eat some more.
We walked by this public restroom on the side of the road every day in Tokyo. I didn’t get a good photo of it, but I love this bathroom. I want to know the name of the architect who designed it because it is beautiful.
We went to an Indian place, which was mid as far as these places go, but was still quite good.
Día 2
- Imperial Palace
- Tsukiji Fish Market
- Shibuya & Harajuku
- Iyoshi Cola
Imperial Palace
In the morning, we took the train to the Imperial Palace to walk the grounds. Upon arriving, I felt like I’d been there before but couldn’t be sure. Maybe just somewhere similar.
The palace is striking. It was strange to imagine the Japanese emperor waking up inside this palace, watching foreign peasants take photos of his property. Constitutional monarchies are weird.
Tsukiji Fish Market
We walked to the metro and got briefly lost looking for the right line entrance. We found it and took the train south to the Tsukiji Fish Market. I had chatted with two girls at my favorite sushi place the night before, and they confidentially told me it was far from the best sushi they had ever had. I was surprised and asked them what the best sushi in Tokyo is. They couldn’t name a particular place, but eventually agreed the sushi at this fish market was easily better. I was skeptical but decided to listen to their recommendation. They were wrong.
Jonny got these daifuku.
The first place I went was the worst sushi I’ve had in Japan. The mackerel was especially repellent. I ate three different pieces and then bailed. Next, I went to a place with a giant line. Here, the sushi was better, even quite good. I got 4 pieces of fatty tuna (it came in a set). Still, this sushi does not come close to my beloved Shinjuku standing sushi bar. To be fair to those girls, the specific place they recommended in the market was closed for the day. I guess there really is no accounting for taste.
We learned that Justin Bieber went to the same market on the same day as us, a couple of hours later. I guess he got the same bad recommendation.
Jonny wanted to check out a Nike employee store, so we went there next. They didn’t let me in, so I sat outside like a naughty child. Jonny didn’t find anything. The whole ordeal was vaguely disheartening.
I saw we were close to a tonkatsu place I had saved called Butagumi, so we walked there. I think I heard about the restaurant on TikTok. Welcome to 2025. It was basically tonkatsu fine dining.
On the menu, they share specific details about the pig you will be eating for lunch. Jonny ordered tenderloin that drank pure water, and ate soybeans. I ordered the 2nd best sirloin cut. I was surprised to find I liked Jonny’s choice better. Mine was too fatty and porky. It must have been the pure water that made Jonny’s so good. The miso soup and cabbage were just alright.
The most interesting thing about lunch, though, was our waiter. We were served by the most beautiful femboy we have ever seen. To say he looked androgynous doesn’t go far enough. He was the perfect twink. Small frame, lush hair, effeminate face. He was very personable, and his English was very good. I think I can speak for both of us when I say we were in awe.
Jonny and the femboy hit it off right away. Naturally, I was furious he wasn’t paying as much attention to me. They were chatting back and forth in Japanese while I sat glaring at the two of them in frustration. It ruined the meal for me and the rest of my day.
Shibuya & Harajuku
After lunch, we took the metro to Shibuya. We did some window shopping but didn’t buy anything. I kept looking for a watch with no luck. We quickly diverted to Harajuku.
Iyoshi Cola
We went to Iyoshi Cola, and I spent a small fortune on cola syrup and merch. I tried Iyoshi Cola for the first time last year on my first trip to Tokyo. I was blown away by the unique flavor. I later made a list of my top 10 favorite sodas, and I put Iyoshi Cola at #1. After drinking a few cans in Fukuoka, I think I may have overrated it a bit. I still think it’s really good and interesting, but not the best soda in the world. That didn’t stop me from buying $100 worth of stuff, though.
I bought 2 jars of the cola syrup so I can make it at home, a hat, a sticker, and a drink they made on the spot. I’ll admit that I’m not good at mentally converting yen to USD and would not have bought all of that if I knew how much the total was, but here we are.
We stopped at a really cool clothes/lifestyle brand store called Cream Soda in a building called Pink Dragon. The brand image is meticulously curated. The decor was on point. I didn’t end up getting anything, but I wish I did. The main reason I didn’t was that I balled out on Iyoshi Cola.
We got gyoza at an awesome gyoza spot that Indi found on our last trip, called Harajuku Gyozarou. Great taste, great price.
We had to end the day doing what we love most, eating until we feel sick.
We ate wagyu ramen at a halal ramen place. Anecdotally, the number of halal places in Tokyo has grown a staggering amount in just one year. The owner is a character and gave us stickers with his face on them. Everyone else in the restaurant was muslim. We just went because it was close to the Airbnb and had good reviews. We both enjoyed our food. 3.75/5.
We walked off our food and returned to the Airbnb.
When I got back to the Airbnb, after showering, I went into the kitchen to get some water. Two women were sitting at the table chatting and drinking. We talked about the trips we were on. Both were retired and were encouraging me to become a YouTuber. I told them I am too scared. I wish I wasn’t. One told me to read a book called Die With Zero because it changed her life. I have since read it and liked it a lot. The main message is that you should strategize how to get the most value out of your life. The way to do that is neither all work and no play, nor all play and no work. Backpack through Asia when you are young because you won’t want to when you’re 75.
Día 3
- teamLab Borderless
We woke up early enough to pack all of our things. My bag was pretty stretched with two bottles of cola syrup, a large kitchen knife, and a bunch of candy added to it. We left our hotel with our gear and took the train to our next destination.
teamLab Borderless
The night before, we booked tickets to teamLab Borderless. If you’ve never heard of teamLabs, it’s a kind of experiential multimedia art exhibit. A lot of the screens are LED panels that display art animations like plants or animals, or water. Most of the other walls are mirrors.
It was a cool experience. If you’ve never done anything like it, I’d say it’s worth trying once. It’s not something I feel the need to do again, but Jonny said it put him into a state of childlike wonder, and he started looking up other teamLab locations around the world.
I had never been to Minato City, the area around teamLab Borderless. I was very impressed. It felt modern, almost futuristic.
While walking around, we saw some cool things. Like this building and a Natural Lawson store.
I wanted to get some more sushi for my last supper. I directed us to a different location of Uogashi – my favorite place in Shinjuku. It wasn’t as good, but I still enjoyed it.
Jonny isn’t a fan of sushi, so we decided to go to an Indian place nearby.
It was good and very cheap, but heavy, and I left the table regretting my decision as thoughts of gripping the airplane bathroom walls floated across my mind.
We took a train to a station where we transferred to the monorail, which leads to the Haneda airport. Expanded, my backpack holds 32L. The majority of the trip, it was 26L. The bag I brought on my last Asia trip was 42L.
We arrived a little early – 3 hours before boarding because I didn’t want a repeat of my last Tokyo airport experience. Indi and I missed our flight out of Narita airport – a very costly mistake.
Jonny had a plus-one pass for the Delta lounge, which was nice. I got a nice seat by the large windows looking out at the airport and Tokyo skyline. We were both so full we didn’t eat anything, but I made liberal use of the soda machine for Coke Zero.
I enjoyed the view from my chair while listening to an audiobook. I hit 85 books read/listened to in 2025!
Our flight was delayed by 30 minutes. Upon boarding, I saw Jonny was sitting next to a child of about 6 years old, which brought a smile to my face. He had boarded early, flaunting his SkyMiles member status in my face. I had sat fuming, waiting for group 8 to board. As I passed him and his seat partner, a passage from the Good Book came to mind from the gospel of Matthew: “But many that are first shall be last; and the last shall be first.”
To my delight, I later learned the child was very badly behaved, and he spent the whole flight either kicking Jonny or the seat in front of him. It was the perfect conclusion to a perfect trip.
Our flight landed in Seattle, and customs went fairly quickly. Jonny tricked me into taking trains back home instead of the flight I had already paid for from Seattle to PDX. Probably because misery loves company. We bought Amtrak tickets to Portland for $55 each. We took the train from SeaTac to Chinatown. From there, we walked to King Street Station. We ate at a chicken shop that was really good and watched an old episode of Batman that was playing on the TV.
We both slept most of the way to Portland.
From the Portland Union Station, we walked to a westbound MAX stop. We passed a ton of homeless people doing homeless people things, like smoking crystal meth. “We’re not in Tokyo anymore, Toto!”
After some mildly annoying shenanigans not worth explaining, we took the train to the end of the line, where Kaitlin picked us up and took us home.
Another incredible trip with lifelong memories made.
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