Rincón
The west coast of Puerto rico is pretty straight compared to the more rounded east coast, but there is one area where a large section of land stick out a few miles further west than the rest of the coastline. That area is Rincón – the westernmost city on the island. It’s known as a surf town and is home to some of the most well known surf spots in all of the Caribbean. It also seems that many from the United States have retired here, which some locals don’t appreciate, but most don’t mind. The nearby Desecheo island is plainly visible from the beaches. The much larger Mona Island (too far away to see) sits between Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic. January through March, whales travel through the Mona passage after breeding and are commonly seen from shore. They say the best sunsets on the island are in Rincón, and I agree. My favorite surf spot and snorkel spot are located 5 minutes apart in Rincón. Although it’s far from the tourist hub of San Juan, a trip to Rincón might be worth your time.
Leaving from San Juan, the drive to Rincón will take over two hours. If you want to see some options of beaches to stop at along the way, check out my Itinerario definitivo para saltar a la playa. If surfing is your priority, don’t go in the summer, the waves will be small. If snorkeling or relaxing in the shallows is your priority, go in the summer when the waves are small. If you wan’t to do both, spring or fall are your best bets but conditions are always changing.
If you are traveling with kids, your first stop should be Colón Park. It’s a great place for kids to run around and play. This Banyan treehouse is awesome, kids and adults will both appreciate it. This is all located right next to Colón Beach, which sits in the protected Aguadilla Bay. This beach is great for kids, at least when I visited. There are next to no waves, the water is very shallow, and the beach is fairly small.
Next up is surfing. For those just learning to surf, try Sandy Beach when the surf is small. If you have some experience, try the twin surfing beaches – Playa Domes and Maria Beach. They’re located on either side of a rocky point on which an old lighthouse stands. They are considered the best surf spots in Puerto Rico or even the Caribbean. The waves are clean and consistent, the water is clear, the ride time is longer than I have found elsewhere, and the lineup is less crowded than other popular spots. I have had the best surf days of my life here. At Domes there are sea turtles cruising around the surf area and I saw one person snorkeling who was able to dodge the 3-4ft waves. The paddle out is longer and tougher at Maria Beach, but otherwise they are very similar.
La Rincón Lighthouse (Punta Higüera Lighthouse) is located right next to Domes Beach. It has a nice park around it with a boardwalk around its perimeter. It’s a great place to watch the sunset or go whale watching. It’s one of the oldest lighthouses on the island having been constructed in 1892. As far as I know, it’s still in service.
Just up the road is a good restaurant – The Beach House. They have a big menu and I have liked everything I’ve tried there. The prices are a little hard to swallow, but the food isn’t. If you’re into fish tacos, give these a try. They have a lot of good seafood options. The ocean view from the restaurant is a big selling point.
Next up is some of the best snorkeling you’ll find on the island. Playa Escalera in the Tres Palmas nature reserve is a short 3 min drive. This is not worth doing if there are big waves, the waves churn up the water and create poor visibility. Plus, there’s a risk of collission with the coral. The summer months are the best time to visit. You’ll need to park on a small country road that leads to the beach. The beach is rocky, it’s easier to get into the water on the left side. Look out for sea urchins. You can expect to see a beautiful underwater city made from giant elkhorn coral structures. You’ll see small tropical fish winding their way through the antler-like coral. If you swim out further you’ll see less coral but some bigger fish. I once saw a couple endangered hawksbill sea turtles which was so cool. Snorkeling here is one of the best things you can do in Puerto Rico, period. Please use reef-safe sunscreen and avoid touching the coral. There isn’t another reef in Puerto Rico like this one. It’s so rare to find a reef this healthy, let’s keep her that way.
Playa Black Eagle is where I often find myself watching the sunset in Rincón. There’s a lot of parking and the water is calm. Part of the beach is rocky, but on the other side of the boat ramp is a sandy section. People often walk to this area to watch the sun sink below the sea.
Wherever you find yourself in Rincón late in the day, make sure you catch the sunset! Anywhere with a view will do. After you’ve watched the sun go down, either return to San Juan for a very long day, or stay the night in town.
Most shops close early in Rincón. Food options are pretty limited, no matter what time of the day. My experience is that Rincón is far from a culinary destination.
The best restaurant I have been to in Rincón may be The Beach House (see above). The burrito at Taquería Vatos Locos was good, as far as Mexican food in Puerto Rico goes. It came covered with cheese which was a bit much for me. The food at Gylro, a greek restaurant was good. The decor is well done and the waitress was very attentive. The burrito at Puerto Burrito was mediocre but not bad. The sushi from La Sirena Sushi was honestly the worst sushi I’ve had in Puerto Rico. Definitely a pass.
Gylro
Puerto Burrito
In the morning, check out Rincón’s main plaza. On Saturday mornings you’ll find a small farmers market.
Camina hasta mi librería favorita de la isla: El Coquí Bookstore. En mi primera visita compré una maltrecha pero preciosa edición de 1956 de 20.000 leguas de viaje submarino de Julio Verne.
Más abajo en la calle está el Rincón Bakery. Si te gusta el queso crema, prueba el pastelito local: el "quesito" de esta panadería. Es el mejor quesito que he probado hasta ahora.
Playa Doña Lala
Rincón Public Beach
Just a little further down the road and you’ll arrive at Playa Doña Lala where you can walk off that quesito. The beach is sandy and calm. There is shade back in the trees, further from the water, but beware of sand flies. Small waves break on the sand. There is a beach volleyball net set up near the tree line. La Rincón Public Beach is nearby. The water is calm and the shore is sandy. There are many pavilions you can use for lunch on the beach.If you are looking for a beach in Rincón to lounge in the water, both of these are great options.
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