Bali
17 August 2024
Bali, the Island of the Gods, is known for its lush rice terraces, stunning beaches, and rich cultural heritage. Whether it’s chasing waterfalls in Ubud, surfing in Canggu, or exploring ancient temples, the allure of Bali pulls travelers into her orbit by the millions. Of all the places we visited in Asia, nowhere was half so disappointing as Bali. The rice fields are being paved over for the construction of luxury villas. The price of surf rentals is laughable. The waterfalls, temples, surf line up, beaches, clubs, and roads are packed full of tourists.
The fact of the matter is that the island of Bali is miserably overcrowded. Also, it’s incredibly overhyped. The island has many Instagrammable vistas and viewpoints, but the travel experience pales in comparison with other islands in the country you’re less likely to see on Instagram. Even the neighboring islands of Java and Lombok are much better destinations, in my opinion. That being said, I enjoyed it less than Indi and five other friends that traveled Bali with us at one time or another. If you do decide to visit Bali, you’ll find fun things to do and beautiful things to see, but it is important to know what you’re getting yourself into.
Bali is one of the travel hubs of Indonesia, so we found ourselves here multiple times throughout our travels. I’ve decided to condense our time in Bali down to show it all back-to-back, instead of writing at least three separate blog posts about each stop.
Day 1 - Nusa Dua
- Kuta Beach
- Kuta Art Market
We rented a scooter (for 2 days) at a place down the road from our hotel. The scooter was a Yamaha Fazzio and I liked it immediately. It had a wide seat base and felt like a new model with a keyless entry. If you have never driven a scooter, Bali is probably not the place to learn.
We drove to the other side of the peninsula because Indi wanted to check out a beach. Google Maps took us on a freeway that had tolls. There was no way to pay the toll with cash, you need some kind of card, so we had to wait on the side of the road (not long) for a local to come by. We gave her cash (a little extra for the trouble), and she paid for us to go through the toll gate. The drive along the toll road was awesome, though. It was a long bridge over shallow water with a dedicated bike lane walled off by a median planter full of boganvelia. It has been one of my favorite scooter rides to date. The traffic in Bali was insane at times, but this part was excellent.
Kuta Beach and The Flea Market
We drove to a market in Kuta called The Flea Market. It ended up being a tourist trap, and we didn’t stay for too long before leaving. A quick Google search shows there are much better markets out there. We walked from the market to the closest beach. We walked down the sand arriving at Seminyak Beach, it was very mid. It was long and had grey sand like a Californian beach. The surf wasn’t great, so I didn’t consider renting a board at the time. The coolest part was when a thin sheet of water covered the sand and made a mirror as we were walking along it towards the end.
We went to a random warung nearby called Warung Murah Double Six, and it turned out to be my favorite warung on Bali. Everything cost 146,000 IDR (≈ $9.00), including a couple of sodas. We met a group of Aussies at the table next to us that told us they had been coming to that specific warung for 20 years. They showed us how and what to order. Warungs often have a kind of cafeteria style where you go to the front and point out which dishes you want. They’ll heap whatever you want onto a plate and then tell you the price. It doesn’t seem like an exact science. The Aussies reminisced on when the crowded Kuta neighborhood where we sat was an empty dirt road. One of the men said, “When you find a good warung, you stick to it.” His words turned out to be prophetic advice I would remember in Nusa Penida.
Day 2 - Nusa Dua
- Nusa Dua Beach
- Melasti Beach
- Amphitheater Gunung Payung
Indi is obsessed with banana roti and ate many in Asia. The roti at Warung Sari Boga in Nusa Dua are great. They’re way thicker than the norm. While staying in the area we stopped here more than once just for the roti.
Nusa Dua Beach
We drove to Nusa Dua Beach to start the day, it was a disappointment. It turns out that we visited during low tide, which meant that there wasn’t any room to get in the water. Coral and rock were poking out of the water, that’s how shallow the beach area was. We walked around on a small peninsula at the beach where they have a kind of park. It was pleasant enough, but we didn’t stay long. We got some food from a nearby warung that was just alright and set off on the scooter.
Melasti Beach
We went to Melasti Beach next. It had the customary Balinese cliffs surrounding it that I am used to seeing on social media, but they were partially manmade as they were cut back to make room for roads and the like. I was less impressed than Indi was. We got in the water close to where we parked to hang out on the beach for a bit. I flew the drone and found a spot at the end of the beach that looked like it was better for getting in the water – a kind of shallow pool of water with a sandy bottom.
The walk over was brutal because the sand was a weird consistency. It was a course sand that exfoliates the bottom of your foot as you walk, but it was also porous, so your foot sinks deep into it, making the walking slow and laborious. We walked until the sand ended at a looming rock wall. We got in the crystal clear, greenish blue water. The beach, like Nusa Dua Beach, seemed to be on the low end of low tide, so the water was very shallow. Exposed rocky areas blocked where you could enter the water. The sun set behind the cliff next to us, so we eventually got out of the water. I didn’t want to walk back on the sand, so I crossed the shallow water over to a long strip of rock that ran parallel with the shore. I put on my sandals and walked back on the rock while Indi walked on the sand. I thought I would be much faster than her, but the uneven rock made for slow going. She beat me by a lot.
Amphitheater Gunung Payung
We ended the day at a lookout above Gunung Payung Beach. To get down to the beach would have required a long walk down from the cliff. That, or pay for a trolley ride which we weren’t interested in paying for. We could see from the lookout point that this beach was also a victim of low tide so we didn’t bother. We just enjoyed the view until the sunset. A local guy wanted a photo with Indi and she blessed him with one.
That evening, our beloved homie Brando(n) arrived on the scene. He was traveling in Singapore and Malaysia while we were in Thailand. We have been to many beaches together in Puerto Rico but this marked the start of seeing some world-class beaches together in Asia.
Day 3 - Uluwatu
- Padang Padang Beach
- Coffee & Tea Tasting
Padang Padang Beach
Brandon, Indi and I went to Padang Padang Beach. We had heard from multiple people that it was an awesome surf spot. When we arrived, I was surprised to find the beach much smaller than I had imagined. Because it is a popular beach, it filled up quickly. There were only a few areas that had shade and we were lucky enough to snag one before they were gone. Many beach goers paid for umbrellas and beach chairs. The surf did not look great by any means, but I wanted to give it a shot. Mainly to check surfing in Bali off my bucket list, if I’m being honest. I asked a surfboard rental guy how much it would be to rent a longboard and he told me it cost 700k ($42) for 1.5 hours. I’m not sure I have ever heard of such a tourist rip off. I didn’t even bother to reply to the offer before walking away. The beach was not particularly pretty and the sand quickly gave way to rocks, so it was not fun to sit in the shallows. We laid in the shade of a rocky cliff bordering the sand for a while until we had enough of chilling.
We ate lunch at another cafeteria style warung where you point to what you want and they calculate everything at the end. I really like this kind of warung and wish I had eaten at more of them.
Coffee & Tea Tasting
We took a Grab to Ubud from the southern peninsula on Bali. On the way, Brandon gave in to the Grab driver to do a kind of coffee tour. We saw a civet in a cage and they showed us the coffee beans it poops out and how they prepare it. They gave us a big tray with a lot of cups of tea and coffee for free, I guess in the hopes we would buy one. I tried a couple of the teas, one or two of them were pretty good. I don’t have much interest in hot drinks in general, but I am sure most people will enjoy this kind of attraction. Brandon bought a cup of civet coffee for himself and the driver. He said he could not tell the difference between the civet (luwak) coffee and normal coffee. The driver informed him that the only way to enjoy coffee is with a cigarette. I assured him it’s never too late to fall into a new addiction and thus started Brando’s vacation smoking habit.
We continued on to our hotel in Ubud. Google Maps claims it takes 1.5 hours, but it really took closer to two hours (not counting the coffee stop). A common theme you will encounter on your research about Bali is that the traffic is out of control. Later that evening, our loud and proud friend Audrey arrived on a flight from the USA. She took a Grab from the airport all the way to our hotel in Ubud. We liked our hotel and would stay there again.
Day 4 - Ubud
- Lempuyang Temple
- Taman Tirta Gangga
- Tukad Cepung Waterfall
- Pura Tirta Empul
We woke up at 3:30 am to be outside at 4:00 am to go on a tour to a few locations around Ubud. The driver was a 29-year-old who drove the narrow roads like Satan himself was chasing us. He started falling asleep at one point and had to stop for coffee. As I am writing this, I feel a fresh wave of gratitude that I am alive. This was our itinerary:
Lempuyang Temple
The drive from Ubud to Lempuyang Temple took about 1.5 to 2 hours, with winding roads and more traffic than you’d expect before dawn. Lempuyang Temple is one of Bali’s oldest and most revered temples, often referred to as the “Gateway to Heaven.” This temple sits on Mount Lempuyang, offering stunning views of Mount Agung in the distance. The temple is known for its picturesque split gate that frames the volcano, making it a popular spot for photos.
The temple looks striking from the outside. I did not enter as a sign was posted notifying visitors not to enter except for prayer. There were tons of people there. I have no idea how many, but a lot. Even in remote areas like this one, Bali’s overcrowding epidemic is palpable. Most people go there to take a photo inside of the gateway that got Instafamous. So, we waited in line for 1.5 hours to take our photo in the middle of the arch. Now, if you’re anything like me, you’re thinking that that sounds super lame. It was, but it was early in the morning, the temperature was nice, and I felt content to sit and take in the view. If you don’t need a photo in that particular decorative gate, you could visit at any time just to enjoy the temple grounds and view of Mount Agung.
Taman Tirta Gangga
Next, we headed to Taman Tirta Gangga, a royal water palace that dates back to the 1940s. The drive was around 1 hour and took us through scenic rice terraces. The palace is famous for its serene, intricately designed pools and fountains, which were once used by the royal family for bathing and relaxation. Today, it’s a peaceful spot to wander through, with koi-filled ponds and statues scattered throughout the gardens.
Tukad Cepung Waterfall
After Tirta Gangga, we drove about 30 minutes to Tukad Cepung, a waterfall tucked away in a jungle ravine. The drive was quick, but the walk to the waterfall took a bit of effort, navigating through forest paths and descending quite a few stairs to get to the river. When we reached the waterfall, we found a sign saying “No Lines”. Right underneath this sign was a line of people. We soon discovered they were patiently waiting to take photos in front of the waterfall. I didn’t have the heart to just walk past them and enjoy the water, so I got in line. I legitimately feel ashamed I didn’t ignore the instagram models and just live in the moment. When I think of Bali, I think of this waterfall. It embodies what is wrong with the travel culture. People get so wrapped up in documenting a moment that they don’t really experience it.
Pura Tirta Empul
Our last stop was Pura Tirta Empul, a temple known for its holy spring water, where locals and visitors alike come to purify themselves. It took about 45 minutes to drive from Tukad Cepung Waterfall to Tirta Empul. The temple dates back to the 10th century and is a significant religious site for Bali’s Hindu community. Visitors can witness or partake in the purification ritual, which involves dipping in the temple’s sacred fountains. We saw locals, but mostly tourists in the water when we went. The whole thing felt a bit ridiculous as the ritual itself clearly didn’t have any meaning for the Chinese and Australian tourists who were grinning and taking photos while locals performed their rites with practiced movements, doing their best to ignore the rabble surrounding them. After spending time at the temple, we made the return trip to Ubud, which took about 45 minutes. On the way back, our driver took us to a restaurant overlooking rice terraces. It was very pretty but I was offended by the prices. We decided to return to town. We ended up getting food at a restaurant close to our hotel, and no one liked their food.
Day 5 - Ubud
- Cretya Ubud
- Campuhan Ridge Walk
Cretya Ubud
I decided to spend most of the day studying at a nearby cafe. Indi, Brando, and Audrey found a better way to spend the day – at Cretya. Cretya Ubud is a luxurious boutique resort on the crest of a hill looking down on descending rice terraces. The resort has a beautiful view, a beautiful pool, and good but overpriced food. They spent the better part of the day there.
Campuhan Ridge Walk
The Campuhan Ridge Walk is one of Ubud’s most popular hikes. It’s an easy, picturesque trek that takes you along a ridge, offering panoramic views of the surrounding valleys, rice fields, and tropical forests. The walk is about 2 kilometers long and typically takes around 1 to 1.5 hours to complete. That’s what I hear anyway. We met up with a friend of Brandon’s he met in Malaysia. We wanted to do the walk during sunset but ended up arriving late. It was already getting dark when we started the walk, we passed a lot of people coming down. We gave up after a while and walked back towards our hotel to find a place to eat dinner.
We got dinner at a sushi place near our hotel that had a daily deal. We all shared about 8 rolls. It was pretty good but not amazing. Monique wanted to walk to the town center, but it was pretty late. She and Brando decided to go, but the rest of us called it a night. They later said that most everything was closed.
Day 6 - Ubud
- Monkey Forest
- Uluwatu Kecak & Fire Dance Show
Monkey Forest
That morning, we got up, packed, and checked out. We stored our stuff at the hotel. After a miscommunication that Monique was coming to us, we realized she was waiting for us at the Monkey Forest. We walked to the Ubud center and then took a Grab. It was quite touristy and busy. I was genuinely scared at times in the Monkey Forest because maqacs are dirty, trash monkeys and they are unpredictable and bite people. We saw a dumb tourist that picked up a baby monkey to take a photo with it. She got bit in the hand by the baby and charged by a couple other bigger monkeys. There is a health clinic that probably gives a few rabies shots a day. The highlight was when Audrey crouched down to get a photo of a monkey, and two little monkeys jumped on her and she freaked out.
We spent a long time walking through the forest on the paved trails. Afterwards, we went to eat an early dinner at a place called Sun Sun Warung, which was pretty good. After the meal, they gave us bracelets with the check. We decided to grab matching colors and put them on our ankles as a token of friendship. Months later, and 3/4 still have them on. For the sake of privacy, I will not reveal which member broke the pact of friendship. (But her name sounds like “laundry”.)
Uluwatu Kecak & Fire Dance Show
We took a Grab to Uluwatu for a dance performance set dramatically on the edge of a cliff. The place was packed, and the line to get in stretched out of sight. From our place in line, we could see packs of trash monkeys roaming the dimly lit grounds, adding an element mild terror to the experience. While Audrey and Indi saved our place in line, Brando and I ran to the bathroom. It is located next to the Uluwatu Temple, so we had a look around. The temple grounds were gated but the view from outside was beautiful. The temple is perched at the edge of the cliff, looking out on the Indian Ocean turned pink by the setting sun.
We got back into line just as it started moving. The performance lasted an hour, though thanks to the rock-hard concrete steps and the very slow storytelling, it felt significantly longer. It was the tale of Cita being kidnapped—basically a live-action rerun of the Indian story Connor had told us about in Cambodia. There were a couple of fun moments involving some mild acrobatics, comedy, and fire. Still, I cannot recommend this experience. But hey, the sunset from Uluwatu Temple? Absolutely worth it.
Day 7 - Canggu
- Finn’s Beach Club
We stayed in a nice villa with space for us to spread out. I spent a good amount of time in the pool every chance I got.
The seed idea for this trip was doing something special for Indi’s golden birthday. She decided she wanted to spend it in Bali, so we planned a trip to Asia around the idea.
Finn's Beach Club
Indi’s much-anticipated golden birthday finally arrived, and she chose to spend the whole day at Finn’s Beach Club in Canggu, one of Bali’s most popular spots. Though not exactly my vibe, I’ll admit it was a nice experience, albeit pricey. We ended up ordering the same bowl of hummus three times because it was so good, despite costing almost $10. Indi had booked us one of the last spots available in the VIP section, which was on a bed by the infinity pool. We spent most of the day relaxing, cooling off in the pool, and occasionally ordering food (or drinks for the others). Brandon even convinced me to jog a mile on the beach, which was pretty cool. We got in the ocean after, though the strong waves and current meant we didn’t stay in the water for long.
The sunset wasn’t anything special, but after dark, the energy picked up. Dancers were stationed around the club, and staff handed out sparklers. Fire dancers performed near the pool while a DJ and hypeman got the crowd going with fog machines. I spent much of the night trying to make progress on a class, though studying in the middle of the party was a bit ridiculous. A member of our group disappeared and we couldn’t find them, one got very drunk, and one lost their expensive watch in the pool. Although I was happy that Indi had a great birthday, I was ready to leave the chaos behind. I have been called many things, but the life of the party is not one of them.
Day 8 - Uluwatu
- Savaya
For this leg of our time in Bali, Audrey was not there. Again, this post is not linear, it’s an account of our days on the island. At this point, our friends Jocelyn and Ashley met up with us. Audrey is as loud as two people, so not much changed.
Savaya Beach Club
Another beach blub? Yeah. Only, this one doesn’t have a beach. Savaya Beach Club is a luxurious cliffside venue with stunning ocean views and an upscale party atmosphere. We spent the day lounginmg by the infinity pool and soaking in the breathtaking scenery. Once the sun set, I cheesed it. I had my fill of that atmosphere at Finn’s and I wasn’t about to relive it. I left the squad at Savaya and took a Grab back to the hotel for our last night in Bali.
Next time
On our next adventure, we leave Bali for the neighboring majestic island of Nusa Penida.
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