Central Rivers
The itinerary will take you to two waterfalls, and two amazing spots on the Caonillas River. I will go through the itinerary driving from Ponce up north, if you are coming from the north towards the south, reverse the order. If the water changes color suddenly in any of these locations, even if it is sunny where you are, promptly make an exit. All are subject to flash floods when it rains at higher elevations in the surrounding area.
Cascada Chorro de Doña Juana is a beautiful waterfall that cascades into a circular pool of cool water. It’s comprised of several tiers and is one of the most striking on the island. It’s located in the Toro Negro State Forest and is right off the side of the road, you can’t miss it. Park on the road near a restaurant and gift shop. Sit on the bridge, or scramble down the rocks to the pool at the foot of the waterfall to enjoy this picturesque spot. The water is cold, but we had fun swimming and lounging on the rocks. The beef empanada ($2.50) from the restaurant is highly recommended.
Drive 20 minutes to the next waterfall,Cascada Las Delicias. Con dos cascadas cerca de la carretera principal, este lugar parece un protector de pantalla. El agua es fresca pero no fría y el bosque es espeso y vivo alrededor del río. La caminata hasta la cascada más grande y más alejada probablemente dure unos 60 segundos, pero las rocas se vuelven resbaladizas cuando están mojadas. Me dijeron que hay un sendero a la izquierda de la segunda cascada que continúa hacia otra cascada. Cascada La Escalera Vale la pena la caminata fácil.
Drive 22 minutes to the next location, my favorite,La Piedra Escrita. Una gran roca se encuentra varada en medio del río Caonillas. Estacione gratis en un lote grande frente al restaurante La Escrita. Aléjese de la carretera para encontrar un largo paseo marítimo de madera que sufre los elementos y las termitas. Caminar por sus curvas te llevará al río, justo en frente de la roca. La roca está cubierta de petroglifos taínos. Puedes saltar o deslizarte por la roca hacia el río. Me sorprendió ver a un grupo grande de chicos locales deslizándose por la roca, justo sobre los petroglifos cuando llegué, pero supongo que eso también es parte de la historia de este lugar. El río es cálido y las montañas circundantes aumentan la maravilla de este lugar tan especial.
If you are running short on time and need to prioritize which spot you can’t miss, make it Cañón Blanco. Looking out over the white canyon is one of the best views on the island. The white rock is primarily composed of limestone, a sedimentary rock formed from the accumulation of marine organisms, such as coral and shells, over millions of years. This limestone has been carved by the river to create a narrow and dramatic gorge. The contrast between the white rocks and the tall, green mountains looming on all sides creates a striking visual spectacle. The water is warm and the depth varies depending on rainfall. Cross the river when the riverbank is at ground level and backtrack a little to enter the water. This is where you’ll find the best spot to hang out in the water, next to the El Sofá, una roca con forma vaga de sofá en la que puedes sentarte. Busque cristales en el fondo del río.
End the day strolling the Plaza Pública de Utuado. Grab some dinner at the nearby Pueblo Viejo 419 Gastrobar. I love the vision of whoever constructed this restaurant, an old brick building’s walls were partially preserved to create the courtyard in front of the restaurant. The risotto comes highly recommended.
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