Chiang Mai
1 August 2024
Chiang Mai is often considered Thailand’s cultural and foodie capital. It was once the heart of the ancient Lanna Kingdom so you’ll find centuries-old temples like Wat Phra That Doi Suthep and ancient walls surrounding the Old City. Visitors come for the food, the historic Old City, to take part in traditional festivals like Yi Peng (Lantern Festival), or venture into the surrounding hills for trekking, elephant sanctuaries, and scenic waterfalls. Chiang Mai is home to the famous khao soi dish. Khao Soi originated from the influence of Muslim-Chinese traders who traveled along the Yunnanese trade routes into northern Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos. Unlike some Burmese and Lao versions, which are often broth-based and less creamy, the Thai adaptation has a more aromatic, slightly sweet, and spicy flavor.
Day 1
- Khao soi
- Chiang Mai Gate Market
- Night Bazaar
Khao soi
From the Sukhothai Bus Terminal, we departed to Chiang Mai. The bus ride took about 6 hours and cost $15.00 per ticket. We rented a scooter and rode it to lunch at Khao Soi Maesai. I got beef khao soi and Indi got a beef noodle soup. Ordering and receiving the food was very quick. The food was excellent. The dishes ranged from 55 – 60 bht (≈ $1.75).
Chiang Mai Gate Market
It was raining off and on, but we made it to the Chiang Mai Gate Market. It turned out we got there too early and there weren’t many vendors open so there wasn’t much to see. We got some banana roti which ended up being the first of many for Indi. I walked past a nearby barber shop and got a haircut.
Chiang Mai Night Bazaar
We spent the evening wandering through the night bazaar. It was huge and we definitely did not see everything. It is full of tourists and locals, but it definitely caters to the tourist crowd. The bulk of what is sold is either food or tourist trinkets. There are many random wares mixed throughout like kitchen utensils, mens suits, and religious icons. A lot of the area is covered for the heavy pedestrian traffic which is nice because it was raining all night. Nevertheless, prepare to get a little wet if it is raining.
Day 2
- Wat Lok Moli
- Food!
We ate brunch at Cafe Rosemary, mostly because it had good reviews and was located close to our hotel. Everything we ordered was great! We shared avocado toast, french toast, and a caesar salad.
Wat Lok Moli
After brunch we rode our scooter to a Buddhist temple. Wat Lok Moli is a lesser-known yet historically significant temple located just north of the Old City moat. Dating back to the 14th century, it is best known for its massive brick chedi, which houses the remains of past rulers from the Mengrai Dynasty. Visitors can fill a pitcher of water set on a rope line, then pull on a rope to move the pitcher across the line where it will eventually spill on the chedi. Two friendly men explained this to us and encouraged us to give it a try. Afterwards, one of them was very determined to discuss American politics with me. He had lived on the East coast for years but had retired to his home country of Thailand. He had a lot to say about the danger and evil of Donald Trump. He assured me that Kamala would beat him handily. This temple is worth a visit because of its beautifully carved wooden architecture and peaceful atmosphere.
It was raining or threatening rain for much of the day so we were hesitant to drive the scooter too far. I swam laps in the hotel pool but it was kind of gross so I didn’t swim for long. I studied in the hotel while Indi went to a sports bar to watch the olympics. For dinner we ordered food on Grab and browsed the Thai cable network.
Day 3
- Wat Sri Suphan
- Food!
On our third day in Chiang Mai, the off-and-on rainy conditions persisted. I was resigned to scratch off most of our plans as they required long scooter rides. The food in Chiang Mai had been so good we decided to do a kind of food crawl. We got food at Moo Ping Khun Por for breakfast. The northern sausage was great. It was served alongside pork in egg with purple sticky rice on the side. We then went back to Khao Soi Maesai for another bowl of khao soi. Finally, we went to Huen Muan Jai because of its stellar reviews. The food there wasn’t amazing and I wouldn’t recommend it, but it was busy and other people seem to have good experiences there.
Wat Sri Suphan
For our last excursion in Chiang Mai we visited Wat Sri Suphan, also known as the Silver Temple. It was one of the most unique and visually striking temples I saw on my trip. Located just outside the Old City in the traditional silver-making district, it is covered in intricate silver carvings depicting Buddhist teachings, mythical creatures, and Lanna-style motifs. Originally built in the 16th century, the temple was later adorned with silverwork by local artisans, making it a true masterpiece of craftsmanship. It is an ancient tradition that men only are allowed inside the main ordination hall. I was quite pleased to learn this as a man. Afte entering this fraternal sanctuary I constantly shouted out to Indi, who sat on a bench outside, how incredibly beautiful the interior was! It was a great experience for us both.
I returned the scooter to the rental agency located close to our hotel. I walked back to the hotel to study and Indi walked to Oldtown to spend the rest of the day exploring. I would love to go back to Chiang Mai as there was a lot we didn’t get the chance to see!
Next time
On our next adventure, we explore the northern city of Chiang Rai to see her famous temples.
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