Chiang Rai

4 August 2024

Chiang Rai, the northernmost city of Thailand, is a hidden treasure filled with culture, history, and breathtaking landscapes. Home to the iconic White Temple (Wat Rong Khun) and the striking Blue Temple (Wat Rong Suea Ten), it offers a unique artistic and spiritual experience. Beyond its temples, visitors can explore the Golden Triangle, visit hill tribe villages, or relax by the Kok River. With its laid-back atmosphere, cooler climate, and rich Lanna heritage, Chiang Rai is a perfect destination for those seeking a quieter yet equally fascinating alternative to Chiang Mai.

Day 1

Arrival in Chiang Rai
Wat Rong Khun – White Temple
Rong Suea Ten Temple – Blue Temple
Wat Huay Pla Kang

Arrival in Chiang Rai

We took the bus to Chiang Rai from Chiang Mai. I couldn’t sleep but Indi managed to sleep for most of the 3 hr 45min bus ride. We bought the tickets on 12Go for $8/ticket. When we arrived in Chiang Rai, Indi walked to the hotel to check in and I walked to a scooter rental place. I had to leave my passport with them, but the scooter was the nicest we had yet rented.

We checked into our hotel near the Chiang Rai Clock Tower. The hotel was strange. It felt like some old apartment building that had been converted into a hotel, it almost certainly was. The lobby desk is right at the entrance, you walk past it to get to the courtyard pictured above. On the far side of the courtyard is where you park your scooter. So, I drove the scooter up the curb, right through the lobby where people were talking to the staff and sitting in chairs, through the courtyard past peoples’ doors, to a concrete slab in the back. I thought it was hilarious and had Indi take videos of me driving through the hotel more than once.

Wat Rong Khun - White Temple

We came to Chiang Rai for the temples and they did not disappoint. The White Temple is one of the coolest temples I have ever seen. Construction of the White Temple began in 1997. It was designed by Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. The temple is covered floor to ceiling with ornate decorations and symbols. The architecture of many Buddhist temples reflects Buddhist teachings of the path to enlightenment. The outside of the white temple depicts grasping hands (and other body parts…) and writhing limbs to symbolize worldly struggles and temptations. As you cross the bridge and enter the temple you move towards purity and enlightenment. Somewhere within that gradient is a wall in the temple painted to show Michael Jackson, the Avengers, Transformers, the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles and other pop culture figures. I suppose they represent something good about humanity, but something short of the final destination.

Construction is ongoing on the temple complex. There is a golden temple on the same grounds that was closed when I visited, but looked like it was nearly (or totally) complete.

After walking around the white temple, we drove the scooter back into town to get lunch at Larb Sanam Keela, it was excellent. Predictably, I ate too much. I feel like I always smell sun-dried pork in markets and don’t love the smell. But, because it is ubiquitous in Thai markets I decided to give it a try and quite liked it. Indi loved her spicy papaya salad.

Rong Suea Ten Temple - Blue Temple

After lunch we went to the blue temple – Rong Suea Ten Temple. As its name suggests, the temple is indeed blue and also very beautiful. The exterior of the temple is covered in gilded, intricate details. I was struck by the beauty of the Buddha statue in the interior of the temple. There is something very compelling about the facial expression.

Wat Huay Pla Kang

Wat Huay Pla Kang is a stunning Buddhist temple complex with multiple structures that would have been sight-worthy alone but together make for one of the must-visit spots in Chiang Rai. The complex features a striking 9-story pagoda adorned with golden dragon sculptures, where each level houses Buddhist statues and artwork, and the top floor offers panoramic views of the surrounding hills. Towering above the site is the iconic white Guan Yin statue, representing the Goddess of Mercy. There are a lot of stairs to get to the foot of the statue to ensure you burn off all the khao soi and roti you’ve been eating. There is an interior elevator leading to a viewing platform behind her eyes which we didn’t end up using because we were happy with the view from the top of the pagoda. Completing the complex is the elegant main temple hall which is full of murals that depict scenes from Buddhist teachings.

We returned from the temple complex to walk around Chiang Rai a bit before turning in for the night. The Chiang Rai Clock Tower was lit up at night and makes for one of the coolest roundabouts I’ve seen. We got some soup and ice cream and returned to the hotel.