Sukhothai
30 July 2024
Sukhothai Historical Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the well-preserved ruins of Sukhothai, Thailand’s first capital (13th–15th century). Located in north-central Thailand, it features ancient temples, Buddha statues, and city walls that reflect the golden age of Thai civilization.
Day 1
- Arriving in Sukhothai
- Sukhothai Historical Park
- Night Market
Arriving in Sukhothai
From Bangkok, we took a bus north to Sukhothai. We departed from Mo Chit Station. We bought our tickets online from 12Go in advance for about $12 per ticket. The bus was fine and departed on time. We stopped halfway through the trip at a rest stop where you can buy snacks or food. There was one restaurant open and most passengers on the bus ordered there so we got what they were getting. It ended up being a chicken foot soup. It was okay but we didn’t get close to finishing it, but not because of the taste. We noticed that everyone was eating incredibly fast. I thought that was pretty funny and unusual until the bus driver shouted at the group it was time to board. We left the mostly uneaten food on the table and the bus promptly departed.
We rented a scooter outside of the bus terminal when we arrived. I wanted to get the cheapest scooter which was really small. I balanced my backpack in front of me, resting part of it on the seat between my legs and part of it on the speedometer. Indi hopped on behind me wearing her backpack. Each of us travelled with a single backpack. We drove the 20km to our hotel to check in and leave our backpacks. I really loved the hotel in Sukhothai. It may have been my favorite Thailand accommodation.
Sukhothai Historical Park
We drove the scooter to the Sukhothai Historical Park. We parked our scooter in front of a ticket booth where we purchased tickets for the park. You enter by walking down a gravel path that leads to the center of the square-shaped historical park. The park is fairlydd large and is criss-crossed by multiple gravel pathways. It is very well maintained. It was cool and serene in the evening. Not many people were around which added to the peace of the place. We expected to see part of the park that evening before it closed, and see most of it the next day. We walked around the ruins for a long time and ended up seeing most everything. While walking around, we saw that the next day’s weather forecast called for rain and wanted to see as much of the park as we could right then. We stayed until closing time.
Night Market
We went to a nearby outdoor food market close to the entrance to the historical park – here. It’s located next to a Buddhist temple in the middle of a man-made lake. The temple and wooden bridges that lead to it are lit up at night. We got a bunch of different stuff to try from several vendors. There are straw mats laid out on grass next to the water where diners can sit and eat their food. For some reason, the memory of this moment stands out vividly in my mind’s eye. The temperature is perfect, a pleasantly warm night. There are happy people around and the sound of them makes for a kind of contented background noise. Lights reflect on the water’s face. My food is spicy but so good. We go for a walk to the temple and across the wooden bridge after we are done eating. This is one of those experiences that makes traveling so special.
Day 2
- Wat Si Chum
- Wat Phrapai Luang
- Wat Sorasak
Wat Si Chum
In the morning we dropped off Indi’s laundry at a place that could do it in one day. I brought a bar of Dr. Bronner’s soap with me which I used to wash my clothes in the sink. After that, we continued touring historic sites riding from place to place on the scooter. Riding around the outskirts of the historical park is very pleasant. The roads are nice and mostly empty. There are many canals in the area. We started at Wat Si Chum. We got there right before a big tour group.
Wat Si Chum is one of the most iconic temples in Sukhothai Historical Park, best known for its massive seated Buddha statue. Dating back to the late 13th century, the temple is believed to have been built during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng. Its most striking feature is the 15-meter-tall Buddha, known as Phra Achana, which sits inside a large, open-roofed structure. Visitors often touch the Buddha’s fingers for blessings, you’ll see traces of gold leaf on the statue, especially the right hand. Inside the walls of the building there are faded inscriptions and ancient carvings that depict scenes from the Jataka tales, stories of the Buddha’s past lives.
Wat Phrapai Luang
Wat Phra Pai Luang is one of the oldest temples in Sukhothai Historical Park, dating back to the 12th century during the Khmer Empire, before Sukhothai became the capital of the first Thai kingdom. It is believed to have been the spiritual center of the area before Wat Mahathat took prominence. The structure is a blend of Khmer and early Thai architectural styles. The site is surrounded by a square moat and earth walls, indicating it was once a fortified temple. We were the only people at this site besides a groundskeeper.
Wat Sorasak
Wat Sorasak is a charming and well-preserved temple unique for its distinctive elephant-adorned chedi. It was built in the early 15th century. Around the temple, there are Tamarind trees everywhere and we foraged some freshly dropped pods off the ground.
Hotel pool
We went to 7/11 for lunch. I got a pork burger with bacon and Indi got ramen. The burger was great, I love 7/11 in Thailand! We went back to the hotel where I spent some time in the pool. It was a very relaxing atmosphere. I have seldom seen other guests around the hotel and there are signs asking to keep voices hushed after certain hours. I really liked this hotel and it’s just $18/night.
For our last night in Sukhothai, we went back to the market. We bought a couple of dragonfruit for the next day’s breakfast. It was raining so we decided to find a restaurant to eat inside.
Next time
On our next adventure, we explore the food city of Chiang Mai to try the famous khao soi.
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