Culebra
Around 45min from the main island by ferry lies Culebra, the smallest of the 3 inhabited Puerto Rican islands. As such, there is less to do here, but a day trip to Culebra is still well worth it. A day trip is the most common itinerary, but there are enough things to do on the island, that you could stay as long as three days and stay very busy. The main attraction is the famous Flamenco Beach – a picturesque Caribbean paradise. Powder sugar white sand and turquoise, crystal-clear water have earned this beach a lot of acclaim. There are other beautiful beaches on the island, but none of them can compete with Flamenco.
Day 1
To get there, you’ll need to buy the $4.50 round-trip ferry ticket in advance, tickets are released near the end of every month usually. They aren’t consistent with the release date, so best to check often in the month before your travel date. You can also check Puerto Rico Ferry’s Instagram page for ticket release announcements. As of January 2024, Culebra now charges a $2.00 municipality tax on anyone visiting the island, bringing the total to $6.50 roundtrip per person. Buy a “passenger only” ticket to arrive quicker, if available. The “pax & cargo” passage is a bigger vessel that travels at half the speed. If there are no tickets available online, check online to see if there are tickets available from the ticket booth in Ceiba. If there are, you can buy them in person but arrive early to make sure you get the tickets you need.
Drive to the ferry terminal in Ceiba (about 1 hr from San Juan). If you have a group you can drop them off at the ferry terminal with your gear. Drive down the road about 200 meters and you will find a parking lot where you’ll have to pay around $15.00 per 24 hours for parking (the price was raised from $11.50 in 2023 and there are no alternatives). Either walk back to the ferry terminal or take the free shuttle back. Each passenger is allowed one item of any size but they aren’t strict with this policy. They will occasionally stop you and charge you extra for beach chairs or a cooler. Boarding starts one hour before departure and stops 10 minutes before departure. Missing the ferry is super common due to arriving late and things taking longer than you expected. Arrive early! The ferry ride takes about 45 minutes in good conditions on the passenger ferry. It can get bumpy if there is a high swell. Be advised that people do throw up. If you get motion sick, take some Dramamine and grab a barf bag when you board. Also, get there early to be among the first to board to sit next to a fan.
Zaco's Tacos
Once you arrive, if you are hungry, you can walk to a few different food places. Zaco’s Tacos is open sporadically and is quite good, though not the cheapest taco you’ll ever buy. It has become our go-to spot for its good service and decor. A sandwich from Pandeli is a good breakfast option. Take any taxi outside the ferry terminal to Flamenco Beach, usually in the form of a white 12-passenger van. It costs $5 per person each way. Some drivers will have Venmo but it’s best to have cash on hand. It’s a short drive to Flamenco Beach. Entrance to the beach is $2 each (cash only). I am not sure how they justify charging since all beaches in PR are public but that’s how it is. They’ve recently used that money to develop buildings near the beach with restaurants, bars, and even a stage on holidays.
Flamenco Beach
Find a palm tree to lie under and enjoy the best beach in all of Puerto Rico. If all the shade is claimed and you didn’t bring an umbrella, you can rent one there. Most everyone congregates on the left side of the beach where the water is calm and it’s close to the entrance. In the middle of the beach, there are more waves. On the far right side, there is a hotel hidden behind trees, you’ll see more people in the water in front of it. This is the kind of beach where you stay all day long. I’d say 4-5 hours is how long you should plan for. The water is its most brilliant with the overhead sun. Showing up at or before noon is the best time. If you arrive at 3:00 or later, it’s still awesome, but not the same.
The snorkeling is sublime in water as clear as a swimming pool. Although the marine life is not the healthiest or most abundant here, the further you swim out along the reef, the more healthy coral you will find.
Walking along the beach to the left of the entrance you’ll find a WW2-era tank stuck rusting in the shallows, a relic from when Culebra and Vieques were used by the U.S. Military for war games, drills, and target practice.
The main downside of this beautiful beach is the sand flies. They retreat in the heat of the day and can be a minor annoyance, but the closer you get to dawn or dusk, the worse they get until it’s unbearable. Time your trip accordingly!
Be aware that there can be a lot of seaweed on this beach. I don’t know how to predict it, but most of the many times I have gone to Flamenco Beach, there is no seaweed. Also, rough surf and rip tides force lifeguards to limit how much of the beach is open for swimmers. Usually, both ends of the beach are safe, and the middle is occasionally closed.
There will almost always be taxis waiting when you walk back to the parking lot. If not, it’s a short wait and there are numbers posted around you can call. You can always get the number of the taxi driver that takes you there. Sometimes they’ll arrange a pickup time with you to win your business. Get to the ferry terminal with some time to spare. Boarding usually starts later than in Ceiba, but it still closes 10min before departure, if it’s on time. There are restaurants close to the ferry terminal if you have time to kill. I like the pizza place.
If you decide to stay for an additional day, you’ll need to find a place to stay and a place to eat. I think Zaco Taco’s is the best restaurant on the island, but Mamacita’s, Dinghy Dock, and El Navegante are solid options as well. As for where you should stay, there aren’t too many options on Culebra. You’ll find most of them on Airbnb. You should be able to find something for less than $200/night for two people. You can also camp on Flamenco Beach. I would probably not attempt this because of the biting insects I have experienced there, but it could be awesome. If you are staying for two nights and feel like splurging a bit, I recommend the Flamenco Beach Villas.
This restaurant has a nice ambiance and tasteful decor. It sits on the edge of the water where big tarpons wait to be thrown scraps. Like other restaurants on Culebra, the food is rather expensive. The yuca mofongo is one of the best I have had, though. The crispy texture of the exterior was a nice touch.
These villas and condos are one of the very few options available for staying right on Flamenco Beach. I had an absolute blast staying on this beautiful property. We had one of the top floor rooms of the house, facing the beach. The view is incredible and the accommodation is comfortable. On the low end, the studio villa costs around $250/night. On the high end, the three-bedroom penthouse costs $450/night.
Day 2
In the morning, take a taxi into town ($6.00 per person from Flamenco Beach Villas, $5.00 from the campground), or walk if you are closer. Grab breakfast from the Pandeli Bakery. Today you’ll be headed to what I consider the most beautiful beach in Puerto Rico: Tortuga Beach on Culebrita Island. To get there, you’ll need to hire a water taxi or organize a tour. I highly recommend Gammy’s Water Tours, we had a great experience with the couple that runs this business. In addition to dropping you off on the island, they also provide chairs, umbrellas, snorkel gear, and even a paddleboard for you to use. It costs $60.00 per adult. Choose the 8:00 am time slot if you want to see the beach with few or no other people on it. Pick the 9:30 am or 11:00 am to be on the island for peak hours when the beach gets overhead sun. They’ll pick you up in town and take you to their dock. The whole experience lasts 5 hours, from pick up to drop off. I recommend bringing snacks, or lunch prepared to eat there. They will boat you around the eastern side of Culebra Island and take you to Culebrita. The boat ride is beautiful and not too bumpy for most of it.
Culebrita
This small, uninhabited island is the easternmost island in the Puerto Rican archipelago and a designated nature reserve. The neighboring island of St. Thomas is clearly visible and is closer than the Puerto Rican main island. It’s a Caribbean Paradise with crystal-clear water and white sands. A historic lighthouse sits in disrepair at the high point of the island. Sea turtles munch on seagrass in the bay and coral reefs surround the island, making for some amazing snorkeling, particularly on the west side of the island. There you’ll find a healthy coral and fish variety, including large nurse sharks. The main reason you won’t find crowds here is because it’s still flying under the radar – a true hidden gem. Although some likely find the $60 taxi price prohibitive.
Depending on what time you get back from Culebrita, you may want either lunch or dinner. Especially if you didn’t bring any snacks to the island. Navegante is a good food option. The restaurant has a great view of the bay. There are a lot of seafood options and traditional Puerto Rican dishes.
There isn’t a whole lot to do in Culebra after the sun sets, so a late lunch and late dinner isn’t a terrible idea. In our case, we thought we’d be able to watch a movie when we got back to our villa, but the internet was so slow that streaming on Netflix didn’t work.
Although it is expensive at around $23.00 a plate, El Navegante has perhaps the best view of any restaurant on Culebra. I got a simple meal which I thought was good but not great. I’d be interested to give the place another try.
Day 3
If you are an adventurer at heart and have decided to stay for a 3rd day on Culebra Island, get ready for some great snorkeling. Both of these beaches can be reached on foot, but not easily. There are three ways to get to these beaches: 1. Take a boat. Go on a tour with an agency that will boat you out to them. I recommend Bright Paddle Inc. 2. You can drive to Tamarindo Beach if you have a vehicle, park there, and hike to these twin beaches. 3. You can hike from the parking lot at Flamenco Beach down a trail for around 20 minutes. This is the most difficult but cheapest way to get there.
Carlos Rosario is right next to Tamarindo Grande Beach and is only separated by a tiny peninsula. Both have excellent snorkeling. The reef is significantly deeper at Carlos Rosario Beach. The visibility is usually excellent and the coral and sea life is abundant. There are sections, where the reef is bleached and dead. If you go out further, past the dead reef you’ll find more fish and healthy soft corals. Jellyfish are common here during their season, so a rashguard isn’t a bad idea. When swimming this reef, don’t over-exert yourself before you swim back to shore as it’s easy to journey out pretty far and get tired.
Carlos Rosario is right next to Tamarindo Grande Beach and is only separated by a tiny peninsula. Both have excellent snorkeling. The visibility is usually excellent and the coral and sea life is abundant. Unlike Carlos Rosario, the reef here is extraordinarily shallow, making this a very accessible reef for beginners. This beach is also more protected from large swell, making it the better choice in larger surf conditions. The reef has great diversity and is quite colorful thanks to a variety of sea fans that drift with the current.
Cayo Luis Peña
If you do decide to take a boat to these snorkeling beaches, you can organize a visit to Luis Peña Key. Luis Peña Beach is beautiful and has some decent snorkeling as well. I highly recommend a trip to this beach if conditions are favorable.
Get to the ferry terminal with some time to spare. Boarding usually starts later than in Ceiba, but it still closes 10min before departure, if it’s on time. There are restaurants close to the ferry terminal if you have time to kill. I like the pizza place.
EN 
ES