Waterfalls & Rivers
It rains a lot on tropical islands. El Yunque rainforest receives upwards of 150 inches of rain a year. All that water needs to go somewhere. Rivers run to the sea, but not before they gift us with some awesome natural formations to visit. Many of these locations are called “charcos”, which are swimming holes that have formed along a river’s path. They are scattered all over the island. There are so many charcos and waterfalls scattered across the island that I feel quite sure I will never see them all. Here are some of the best I have seen:
This unique spot is located on the south side of El Yunque. There is a spot or two for cliff jumping, a rope swing, and two natural water slides. This is an incredible location to spend time in the water in the rainforest. Unfortunately, that is well known, and large tour groups are here every day.
Charco Prieto is a stunning waterfall and swimming hole tucked into the forest. The trail leads to a large, serene pool at the base of one of Puerto Rico’s tallest waterfalls. Cascading water fills the air with a sparkling mist that glows in the sunshine. You can get up close to the waterfall and feel the spray on your skin, surrounded by lush greenery and the sound of the cascading water.
Cañón Blanco (White Canyon) in Utuado is a strikingly unique section of river carved through white rock. Walking along the narrow canyon, the sun glints off the warm water as it winds through the smooth stone. One of the best spots is El Sofá, a rock shaped vaguely like a sofa, perfect for sitting and taking in the surroundings. The canyon stretches down the valley toward a tall, lone green mountain on the horizon, creating one of the most breathtaking vistas in Puerto Rico. Scattered petroglyphs and the occasional friendly goat add unexpected charm, making the place feel both ancient and alive.
The so-called sand caves (also known as Charco Azul) could be a gateway to Narnia, they look so magical. A short hike down a steep street and through a stream brings you to a section of river passing through a high-ceilinged cave. The river emerges on the other side as a smaller, clearer stream. Natural clay deposits can be found on the stream bed that you can rub on your skin, treat yo’ self! Inside the cave, you can climb up the rock and jump into the river running through the narrow cave from about 20 feet up. Try a homemade limber from Junior and Diana’s property (where you will park), they’re the best on the island!
Gozalandia seems to be the most famous waterfall on the island. The waterfall splits into two smaller waterfalls when there is less water volume. The water in the pool at the base of the falls is deep, someone told me it is forty feet deep, but I don’t know if that is true. There are a couple of spots to jump off the rock into the pool. The water comes from a natural spring which causes some kind of mineral build-up under the falls and in the river. This waterfall feels especially magical somehow.
La Piedra Escrita is an incredible location you must visit if you are touring the interior of the island. A large boulder sits beached in the middle of a river in Jayuya. The rock is covered in Taíno petroglyphs. I was surprised to see a large group of local boys sliding down the rock, right over the petroglyphs, but I guess that too is part of the boulder’s history. The river is warm, and the surrounding mountains add to the wonder of this very special spot.
Las Paylas is a natural waterslide and swimming hole near El Yunque, and it’s easy to see why it draws crowds. The slide is genuinely fun, and everyone I’ve seen there is always laughing and having a blast. If you are done going down the slide and that area is too crowded, head downstream to a large swimming hole where you can chill in the shallow water.
Down a dirt road in Adjuntas is a very peaceful swimming hole. The water is clean and clear, on one side the water is shallow, and on the other is a rope swing over deeper water. In the canopy above you can spot Puerto Rico’s national flower hanging from a tall maga tree.
This long, skinny waterfall is also known as the Devil’s Throat. It runs into a shallow pool that is perfect for cooling off after the hot hike through the woods. Birders will enjoy this one as the one-hour hike meanders through a forest full of birds (and mangos).
Driving through Toro Negro State Forest in Orocovis, you’ll pass this beautiful waterfall. Sit on the bridge, or scramble down the rocks to the pool at the foot of the waterfall to enjoy this picturesque spot. The water is cold, but jump in! The beef empanada ($2.50) from the nearby restaurant is highly recommended.
Charco El Hippie is a popular swimming hole located in the municipality of Naguabo. This natural pool receives water from a small, cascading waterfall. You can climb up the rocks on one side to jump into the water below. Make sure to do a depth check before you jump. The name “El Hippie” comes from the area being a popular hangout spot for hippies in the 1960s.
Nestled in the verdant mountains of Carite State Forest is a long, narrow waterfall mostly hidden by the forest canopy. The waterfall levels out and pools in multiple areas as it flows down the mountain, the Patillas Infinity Pool is the most famous and accessible of these. Two pools form where the river flows over smooth rock ledges, creating the illusion of an “infinity” edge overlooking the lush valley below. Wild raspberries and edible flowers line the muddy trail down to the river.
This waterfall is fed by a natural spring in the mountains of San Sebastian. The cold water fills a shallow pool and runs under a bridge before dropping off in a much taller waterfall into a deeper pool below. What makes this spot unique is the impressive buildup of calcium carbonate under the falls and downriver. Where you would expect to find a stream bed filled with river rocks, instead, you find a smooth surface that looks more like a paved road with an inch or two of water running over the tan rock.
Sporting two waterfalls near the main road, this spot near the border of Jayuya and Ciales looks like a screen saver. The water is cool but not cold, and the forest is dense and alive around the river. The walk to the further and larger waterfall probably takes around 60 seconds, but the rocks do get slippery when wet.
Cascada El Survivor in Patillas is a short hike that leads to a quiet, scenic spot along the river. I’ve never come across a crowd here, which gives it a secluded feel. A shallow rock ledge by the waterfall makes a great place to lounge in the water, and the surrounding rocks and hanging vines create a natural, picturesque backdrop. Just behind the cascade is a wide pool with plenty of room to swim and unwind.
Outside the town of Adjuntas, the river drops down a few small waterfalls creating multiple pools to swim in. Getting down to the main pool is a little tricky but worth the effort. There is a spot for cliff jumping at the main pool. There was some questionable-looking standing water in a few spots so I was careful about where I dunked my head so no amoebas could eat my brain. It is somewhat difficult to climb up and down the steep rocks so skip this spot if that’s a concern for you.
Located in San Lorenzo, behind someone’s property is a spot where water runs down boulders from several angles, creating multiple small waterfalls – apparently seven. You can walk through most of the water pictured, but it gets deep toward the end. There’s a spot to stand on the right side, further down.
The drive to this spot is windy but beautiful. I don’t know of another drive on the island where you get to pass through so much undeveloped forest. The hike to get to this charco takes about ten minutes and is easy. The charco itself is not the coolest one you’ll find. It is great for large parties, though. The swimming hole is large and next to it is a large grass area where many people could spread out.
This small charco is really off the beaten path. It’s located in the country town of San Lorenzo. The pool is deep enough that you can jump off the rocks above into the water. The water is cold and refreshing. There’s a small waterfall that you can sit next to. When I visited on a weekend, there was a family that had claimed the whole charco and did their best to fill every inch of it, so we didn’t stay long. It’s a really pretty spot and despite its remote location, I think it’s worth visiting if you can get it to yourself.
Behind an abandoned house in southern Caguas is a lesser-known charco that you have a good chance of finding empty. A couple of small waterfalls run into a pool over a rock that you can jump off. (Always do a depth test as the river changes depending on the rain.) Someone has taken it upon themselves to spray paint “No basura” on all the prominent rock faces. I haven’t seen any trash here recently, so I guess it worked, but at what cost?
There are too many spots called “charco azul” so I refer to this one based on the name of the canyon in which it is located instead of how it shows up in Google Maps. San Cristóbal Canyon is the deepest canyon in the Caribbean with a maximum depth of 800 feet. Sadly, it was previously used as a dump by the government until the late 70’s. When you get to the bottom, you’ll find this charco which is divided into two by some rocks. To the left is a lot of fish, to the right is bigger and deeper. The hike back up is rough.
Puerto Rico also has several freshwater springs that are less well-known. The water is pure and cold (with one hot spring being the exception) compared to the rivers or salt water. If you are looking for some hidden gems off the beaten path, check these out.
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