Central Rivers

The itinerary will take you to two waterfalls, and two amazing spots on the Caonillas River. I will go through the itinerary driving from Ponce up north, if you are coming from the north towards the south, reverse the order. If the water changes color suddenly in any of these locations, even if it is sunny where you are, promptly make an exit. All are subject to flash floods when it rains at higher elevations in the surrounding area.

Cascada Chorro de Doña Juana is a beautiful waterfall that cascades into a circular pool of cool water. It’s comprised of several tiers and is one of the most striking on the island. It’s located in the Toro Negro State Forest and is right off the side of the road, you can’t miss it. Park on the road near a restaurant and gift shop. Sit on the bridge, or scramble down the rocks to the pool at the foot of the waterfall to enjoy this picturesque spot. The water is cold, but we had fun swimming and lounging on the rocks. The beef empanada ($2.50) from the restaurant is highly recommended.

Drive 20 minutes to the next waterfall,Cascada Las Delicias. Sporting two waterfalls near the main road, this spot looks like a screen saver. The water is cool but not cold and the forest is thick and alive around the river. The walk to the further and larger waterfall probably takes around 60 seconds but the rocks do get slippery when wet. I’m told there is a trail to the left of the 2nd waterfall that continues on to another waterfall – Cascada La Escalera that is very much worth the easy hike.

Drive 22 minutes to the next location, my favorite,La Piedra Escrita. A large boulder sits beached in the middle of the Caonillas River. Park in a large lot in front of the La Escrita restaurant for free. Walk away from the road to find a long wooden boardwalk suffering from the elements and termites. Walking down its switchbacks will take you to the river, right in front of the boulder. The rock is covered in Taíno petroglyphs. You can jump off, or slide down the boulder into the river. I was surprised to see a large group of local boys sliding down the rock, right over the petroglyphs when I arrived, but I guess that too is part of this location’s history. The river is warm and the surrounding mountains add to the wonder of this very special spot.

If you are running short on time and need to prioritize which spot you can’t miss, make it Cañón Blanco. Looking out over the white canyon is one of the best views on the island. The white rock is primarily composed of limestone, a sedimentary rock formed from the accumulation of marine organisms, such as coral and shells, over millions of years. This limestone has been carved by the river to create a narrow and dramatic gorge. The contrast between the white rocks and the tall, green mountains looming on all sides creates a striking visual spectacle. The water is warm and the depth varies depending on rainfall. Cross the river when the riverbank is at ground level and backtrack a little to enter the water. This is where you’ll find the best spot to hang out in the water, next to the El Sofá, a vaguely sofa shaped rock you can sit on. Look out for glass on the river bottom.

End the day strolling the Plaza Pública de Utuado. Grab some dinner at the nearby Pueblo Viejo 419 Gastrobar. I love the vision of whoever constructed this restaurant, an old brick building’s walls were partially preserved to create the courtyard in front of the restaurant. The risotto comes highly recommended.