Edinburgh & The Scottish Highlands

7 July 2025

Edinburgh is Scotland’s charming capital city. Although I haven’t seen much of Europe, it feels unique to me because of the look of the city. Unlike the pastel-painted plaster facades common in Europe, Edinburgh sports unpretentious, unpainted sandstone on many of her buildings. The impression the architecture made on me landed somewhere between austere medieval and The Edinburgh Castel, Royal Mile, Arthur’s Seat, and the National Museum of Scotland are the main highlights. The city is walkable and full of history.

Day 1

We packed up early to get Poobie to her 11:50 am flight. After dropping her off, Indi and I wandered Argostoli’s main walking street. Most shops were closed, but the shade made it a pleasant stroll. Before returning the car, I made one last attempt to scrub the salt from the driver’s seat, just enough to pass inspection. I think I got most of it out.

We had heard the airport was chaotic, so we arrived early, only to find that security and passport control were quick and painless, which left us with plenty of time to kill. The airport felt cramped with only a handful of gates struggling to handle the crowds. Weather warnings slowed everything down, including boarding, takeoff, and even landing when we circled the runway in a holding pattern. The views on descent to London were prettier than I had expected. I saw a couple of full-on palaces or manors from the plane that blew me away.

Getting out of the airport was quick and easy. We caught the Thameslink train toward St Pancras but stopped first at London Bridge. We walked a loop by the river to take in the views (mostly of Tower Bridge) before heading back to the station and continuing on the same line. From St Pancras, we crossed the street to King’s Cross, where we stepped into the Harry Potter Platform 9 ¾ store. It was packed wall to wall, and the line to pose with Harry’s luggage cart was massive. I settled for a keychain and a chocolate frog that cost far too much. Later, we grabbed some dodgy sushi that went straight into the trash and made up for it with surprisingly good Korean spicy chicken.

We took the train to Edinburgh with Lumo. The train was very dirty and didn’t smell great. Lumo’s seat map was super confusing, so although I tried really hard to get a good seat, I managed to pick one of the few rows without a window view. We departed Kings Cross Station at 19:24.

Day 2 - Edinburgh

Victoria Street
Edinburgh Castle
Royal Mile
National Museum of Scotland
Holyrood House

Victoria Street

We took a bus to the Royal Mile and walked to Victoria St. We went into a Harry Potter store, but besides that, we mostly meandered down the road.

Victoria Street, just off the Royal Mile in Edinburgh’s Old Town, is one of the city’s most photographed streets. Built in the 19th century, it curves downhill with colorful shopfronts, cafés, and independent boutiques. The street is often noted as an inspiration for Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter series, which adds to its popularity. It’s a quick but worthwhile stop for photos, shopping, or grabbing a bite to eat.

Edinburgh Castle

After that, we walked to Edinburgh Castle. We used my mom’s phone and an app that was preloaded to give us an audio tour of the castle. It was cool! It was a good thing we got a relatively early start because when we left the castle, we encountered a horde of people filling up the whole street with foot traffic.

Edinburgh Castle sits on Castle Rock at the top of the Royal Mile and is Scotland’s most visited paid attraction. The fortress has served as a royal residence, military stronghold, and symbol of the nation for centuries. Visitors can see the Crown Jewels of Scotland, the Stone of Destiny, St Margaret’s Chapel, and panoramic views over the city. Entry is ticketed, and it’s best to book in advance, especially during summer. Allow at least two hours to explore.

Royal Mile

The Royal Mile is Edinburgh’s historic main street, running through the Old Town from Edinburgh Castle down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. About one mile long, it is lined with medieval closes, shops, pubs, and landmarks. Key sites along the route include St Giles’ Cathedral, the Real Mary King’s Close, and the Scottish Parliament near the palace. It is the busiest tourist area in Edinburgh and is best explored on foot.

We arrived at Makar’s Mash just before opening time and found a fairly long line. We got our name on the waitlist and were assigned a 40min wait time. While waiting, we wandered around the surrounding area and entered a few shops. We entered St Giles’ Cathedral.

National Museum of Scotland

We walked to the National Museum of Scotland, which was huge, free, and very cool. We didn’t have the patience to look through much or even or most of the museum, but we did see a few cool exhibits. The wildlife room was very cool.

The National Museum of Scotland, located on Chambers Street in Edinburgh, is the country’s most visited museum. It combines Scotland’s history with global collections, ranging from natural history and science to art, design, and world cultures. Highlights include the Lewis Chessmen, Dolly the sheep, and exhibits on Scottish archaeology and royalty. Admission is free, and the museum is open daily, making it a popular stop for both tourists and locals. Plan for 2–3 hours to see the main galleries, though a quick visit is also worthwhile.

Holyrood House

Then we walked down the Royal Mile to Holyrood House and took a tour of the palace and grounds.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse, at the foot of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, is the King’s official residence in Scotland. Once an abbey founded in 1128, it became a royal palace in the 16th century and is closely tied to Mary, Queen of Scots. Today, visitors can tour the State Apartments, Mary’s chambers, the ruins of Holyrood Abbey, and the gardens. Photography is only allowed outside. Tickets include an audio guide, and most visits take about 1–2 hours. The palace is open year-round except during royal visits, so it’s best to check ahead.

We got Nepalese food and watched the movie Mary Queen of Scots. We skipped hiking up Arthur’s Seat because we already had 20k steps in the day and our feet hurt.

Day 3

Fteri Beach
Assos
Myrtos Beach

Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park

We started our day at Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park– it was an. We arrived just in time to catch a boat ride, but ultimately decided not to get on because it was pretty crowded. Instead, we did a short walk by the lake, walked by a church, then walked along a river. There were perfect skipping stones, so we skipped stones for a while. Raspberries were growing on the side of the trail, including some yellow-white raspberries that were quite good.

Glencoe Valley

We drove through Glencoe Valley to make our way further north through the Scottish Highlands. This was the highlight of our highlands trip for me. We stopped a couple of times to take in the view, but it was also spectacular just watching the landscape pass by from the car window. The hills are green and grassy – mostly treeless. They’re taller than I imagine hills in Scotland to be; they’re mountains.

Hagrid's Hut

We got lunch at a pub which offered decent food. It was set close to Hagrid’s Hut so we walked from the pub straight there. It was pretty cool to see the film location, but it’s a bit anticlimactic if you ask me.

Steall Waterfall

Tucked in Glen Nevis near Fort William, Steall Waterfall is Scotland’s second-highest waterfall, plunging 120 meters in a single dramatic drop. The short hike to reach it—just over a mile each way—winds through one of the country’s most scenic valleys, with towering peaks and a rushing river beside you. At the end, a rope bridge and meadow frame the cascade, creating a setting that feels straight out of a fantasy film (it actually appeared in Harry Potter). It’s an easy, rewarding walk that delivers one of the Highlands’ most unforgettable views.

Day 4

Fteri Beach
Assos
Myrtos Beach

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Eilean Donan Castle

Rising at the meeting point of three lochs, Eilean Donan Castle is one of Scotland’s most iconic landmarks. Built in the 13th century to guard against Viking raids, it later became a stronghold of the Clan Mackenzie before being blown apart in the Jacobite uprising of 1719. Left in ruins for nearly 200 years, it was painstakingly restored in the early 1900s—complete with its now-famous arched stone bridge. Today, visitors can explore its halls and towers, but most come for the breathtaking, cinematic setting that makes it one of the most photographed castles in the country.

Old Man of Storr

Nestled along the craggy spine of the Trotternish Ridge, the Old Man of Storr is more than just a rock—it’s a siren call to anyone drawn to mythic landscapes and primeval geology. Towering at about 55 meters, this basalt pinnacle is all that remains of a volcanic plug forged over 60 million years ago, sculpted by ancient lava flows and massive landslides

The legend says the Old Man was once a giant whose thumb remains to this day, jutting skyward as the famous monolith. It’s just plausible enough to give you goosebumps

The hike begins at a small parking area off the A855, where a wide gravel path cuts through regenerated forest. Soon, you’re zigzagging up grassy slopes that occasionally turn muddy—especially outside the drier months Out About Scotland Isle of Skye. After crossing a few gates and passing an emergency water pond (for firefighting!), you’ll reach a fork. The left path is the gentler choice—stick with it if you want to save your knees for the views

In 1 to 2 hours round-trip—depending on how many photo stops you take—you’ll reach the base of the Old Man. Pursue a bit further to Photographer’s Knoll for a panorama that rewards every huff and puff: sweeping views of Rona, Raasay, the mainland beyond, Portree’s patchwork, the looming Cuillin peaks, and Trotternish’s dramatic undulations

Kilt Rock

On the Isle of Skye’s rugged Trotternish Peninsula, Kilt Rock is a dramatic sea cliff named for its resemblance to Scotland’s famous tartan garment. Basalt columns form pleats while sandstone layers add color and texture, creating a natural “kilt” that drops sheer into the sea. Adding to the spectacle, the Mealt Falls cascade directly over the cliff edge, plunging into the waters below. Easily accessed from a roadside viewpoint, Kilt Rock is a quick but striking stop that captures Skye’s wild coastal beauty in a single glance.

We drove back to the south of Skye and checked into our hotel. After checking in, we walked to dinner at a pizza place. It was all pretty good, although our pizza was very greasy. I tried a Scottish soda for the first time, which reminded me a lot of Inca Kola from Peru. It had the same bubble-gummy sweetness.

Day 5

Foki Beach
Fiskardo
Paralia Emplisi

Loch Ness

We drove to Loch Ness. It was too windy to kayak on the lake, and boat rides were sold out at the time that we arrived. We wanted to visit a castle by the lakeside, but the car park was sold out and we couldn’t get in without a prior reservation. So, we didn’t end up doing much at Loch Ness. Instead, we went to the Loch Ness Centre to learn about the history of Nessie. It was pretty fun, kids will especially enjoy it, but it was pretty overpriced.

The sun came out for a second, and I launched my drone further down the road for a few minutes.

Inverness

We drove to Inverness and walked around the town centre. We saw a lot of churches. We saw:

Inverness Cathedral, dedicated to St Andrew, Leakey’s Bookshop, The Victorian Market(which was just closing), a catholic cathedral.

Inverness, the capital of the Scottish Highlands, is a compact city known as the gateway to Loch Ness and the surrounding countryside. Highlights include Inverness Castle (viewpoint only, not open inside), the riverside walk along the Ness, and the Victorian Market. The city is small, easy to explore on foot, and offers plenty of shops, pubs, and restaurants. It’s also a convenient base for day trips to Culloden Battlefield, Clava Cairns, and the wider Highlands.

Day 6

Foki Beach
Fiskardo
Paralia Emplisi

Clava Cairns

Clava Cairns, just outside Inverness, is a 4,000-year-old Bronze Age burial site with passage graves, ring cairns, and standing stones aligned to the winter solstice. It’s free to visit, takes less than an hour to explore, and has no facilities—just the cairns in a quiet rural setting. About 15 minutes from Culloden, it’s an easy historic stop that’s also popular with Outlander fans.

Pitlochry

Pitlochry, in central Scotland, is a small town known for its Victorian charm and outdoor activities. Visitors come for the salmon ladder on the River Tummel, the nearby distilleries, and the surrounding hills with accessible walking trails. The town has a mix of shops, cafes, and theaters, making it a popular stop between Edinburgh and the Highlands.

The Hermitage

The Hermitage, near Dunkeld in Perthshire, is a woodland walk along the River Braan featuring towering Douglas firs and Ossian’s Hall, a folly overlooking a dramatic waterfall. The trails are short and easy, making it a popular stop for a quick walk in a scenic forest setting. It’s managed by the National Trust for Scotland and has parking on-site.